March 2013 – GQ India*
It’s not quite 11pm, but we’ve already been at Centre Point – Shillong’s best-known nightspot – for at least three hours. Despite the brilliantly backlit bar, the room glows with a dim, lurid light somewhere between crimson and burgundy. It’s a cold weekday night in early winter and most of the tables are empty save for a cluster of presumptive tourists looking out large picture windows over the illumined labyrinth of Meghalaya’s hill station capital. I step outside for a minute or two, and by the time I come back in, I find not one, but two extra shots sitting next to my still half-full gin and tonic.