27 June 2016 – Extra Crispy
When I first moved to Bombay, I spent a week sharing a tiny, ill-ventilated one-bedroom apartment with a pair of chain-smoking journalists from Calcutta, friends of a friend of a friend who’d generously offered me a place to crash. Every night, we slept sideways on a queen-sized bed, my feet dangling over the edge, and every morning, to get out of that dim, pungent apartment, I’d walk a block to the dosa stand on the main road. I’d eaten dosas before in New York, and that morning routine, that one familiar thing, helped keep me steady on the ground while my mad, new city spun drunkenly around me. (more…)
15 June 2016 – Saveur
In 1982, when José and Betty Reyes first started selling pupusas, the national dish of El Salvador, there wasn’t a whole lot of competition. The Salvadoran population was still new then—José, for instance, had come in 1974 as part of the earliest wave of immigration—not large enough to support much in the way of restaurants. Their restaurant in Adams-Morgan, at the time still a predominantly Latino and Afro-Caribbean neighborhood, was among the first in town to specialize in Mexican-Salvadoran cooking. They called their restaurant El Tamarindo, and made the humble pupusa their specialty. Three decades later, the pupusa is one of D.C.’s defining snackfoods, and pupuserías are ubiquitous.