Month: July 2011

GQ City Guide: Santiago

July 15, 2011 – GQ India

No one quite seems to get Santiago – Santiaguinos included. Divided into comunas with entirely different personalities, the capital of one of Latin America’s most stable economies can be a lot of things to a lot of people. For the posh crowd in the city’s squeaky clean eastern districts, Santiago is a growing hotspot for art, design, fine dining and finance. In the university district of Barrio Brasil, it’s a run-down gem with a thirst for revolution. And in the middle class neighborhoods from which most Santiaguinos hale, it’s still a city of traditions and small-town attitudes. Many residents live their lives swaddled in their cultural comfort blankets – don’t let that stop you from sampling the elegant, the gritty and the everyday side by side. It’s in the mix that Santiago rises above the ordinary. (more…)

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The End of the Earth

July 18, 2011 – Killing the Buddha

The ancestral burial ground of the Yaghan people lies on the frigid southern bank of the Beagle Channel. White stakes slant out of the grass like so many scattered bones along the shore, as faded and blank as the Patagonian sky overhead. The next 20 miles of coast is empty but for the narrow gray streak of road that heads east to the Chilean outpost of Puerto Williams, the southernmost town on earth. Rows of tidy white houses huddle low under a wall of ragged peaks that seem to push them back north toward the water. Viewed from the channel, the town might be a giants’ cemetery, the houses just so many grave markers for a foolhardy civilization. (more…)